Swiss MTB route 2 - Panorama bike

Stage 1 / Rorschach – Lehmen 49.7km / +1’720m

To cross Switzerland by mountain bike, it takes over 5 hours by train to reach the extreme north-east of the country on the shores of Lake Constance, at Rorschach. 
From there I set off on a long diagonal south-west bound, all the way to Montreux on the shores of Lake Geneva. 
This route will take me from lake to lake, 475km across the whole country. 
It starts with some short climbs in the hills south of Lake Constance, where I leave the canton of St. Gallen and enter Appenzell. These climbs are a good warm-up for what promises to be a warm and sunny week.
I’m enjoying the freshness of the forests, even though the climbs are sometimes rather demanding, but they’re still short, which is good for a first afternoon of cycling. And the scenery more than makes up for the effort.
I reach the charming little town of Appenzell, capital of the canton of the same name, famous for its houses with colourful facades. 
I’ve only got a few easy kilometres left to finish this first half-stage, in Lehmen.

Stage 2 / Lehmen – Näfels 58.6km / +1’724m

The second stage begins with a pleasant climb through the fir trees, on a nicely gravelled road whose gradient is not too difficult. 
This allows me to enjoy the magnificent scenery of alpine marshes and mountain pastures, which I cross on my way up to the first summit of the day.
On the other side of the pass, at Schwägalp, I’m surprised to discover that a traditional Swiss wrestling competition is taking place, called ‘culotte wrestling’, which has attracted a large number of spectators, despite the fact that we’re at an altitude of over 1,300m, in the middle of the mountain pastures.
Then I head back down into the canton of St. Gallen, to a pretty little Alpine plateau, from where I begin the second climb of the day. 
I have to climb to the Risipass, which rises to 1,457m, still in this scenery of alpine pastures dotted with fir trees.  
At the bottom of the descent, I stock up on supplies in the little village of Stein, before starting a new climb.
It’s a long asphalt climb of around ten kilometres that takes me over 1,500 metres to the Vorder Höhi pass, the last climb of the day.
I then enjoy a long descent to the magnificent Walensee lake and its turquoise waters, before following the Linth canal that links this lake to the one in Zurich, to arrive in Näfels, the day’s stage in the canton of Glarus.  I’m unpleasantly surprised to discover that my accommodation is closed and no-one is available, and I spend the late afternoon looking for a solution, and finally find a room in the area, at a sport complex.

Stage 3 / Näfels – Schwyz 74.1km / +2’481m

The third day begins with another long climb of over 12km, in the Niederurnen valley. 
The gradient is steady, but averages around 10%. You have to be patient and enjoy the scenery and the cool morning air.
From 1000m, I once again find myself in this enchanting setting of fir trees and alpine marshes, dotted with large rocks. 
An unnamed pass at over 1400m marks the entrance to the canton of Schwyz. 
The start of the descent through the marshes brings me to land for the first time on this adventure. And it won’t be the last.
A long descent takes me back to the bottom of the valley, to Flühbodeli, at an altitude of less than 600m, from where I begin another ascent.
The climb up to Sattelegg is very demanding, and the heavy midday heat doesn’t make it any easier.
Then it’s the descent to Lake Sihl, which I cross over a bridge of more than 1km, straight to the town of Einsiedeln, where I’m greeted by its gigantic convent, an important pilgrimage site on the Via Jacobi.
I then enjoy around ten kilometres of false flat rising into the Alpthal valley.
This is a pleasant respite before the final climb of the day to Haggenegg (1,414m), a pass dominated by the Mythen massif.
On the final descent, I enjoy lovely views of Lake Lauerz and the mountain to be climbed the next morning, just behind it.
I stop off in Schwyz, capital of the canton of the same name.







Stage 4 / Schwyz – Sörenberg 81km / +2’365m

For the first time, the day doesn’t start directly with a climb. First I skirt Lake Lauerz, as smooth as a mirror in the calm of the morning.
Then it’s off for a 6km climb at over 10%. It stings and wakes you up, but the view soon makes you forget the pain. 
And I’m rewarded, because the end of the climb is a magnificent single trail to the Gätterli pass.
I then plunge down to Lake Lucerne, which lies 600m below, nestling in the heart of the mountains.
The short crossing of the lake on the ferry to Beckenried gives me a chance to rest. Then I’m in a new canton, Nidwalden.
A short passage across the plain brings me to Stans, home of the legendary Swiss hero Winkelried, before enjoying the coolness of the beautiful Chernwald forest, which opens up a seventh canton, Obwalden.
I refuel in Sarnen, then take advantage of the flat stretches along the lake of the same name, as the afternoon ahead of me will be long and rather steep.
Starting in Giswil, I begin a long climb of 13km and over 1100m of ascent. It’s very hot, and I splash myself as much as I can at every stream. Lake Sarnen draws ever closer behind me, and I reach the station at
Mörlialp station.
One more effort and I’m relieved to pass the Col de Glaudenbielen at over 1,600m, after a gruelling climb in the sweltering heat.
A short descent will take me to the village of Sörenberg, in the Canton of Lucerne (canton No 7).

Stage 5 / Sörenberg – Thun 83.1 / +2’129m

The 5th stage begins with a demanding climb, but the wild scenery on the way to Blattenegg (1,635m) is simply stunning. 
Even if I have to push briefly, the scenery more than makes up for this minor inconvenience.
I then enjoy the long descent, because I know I’ll soon have to put my foot down again.
At the entrance to the canton of Bern, the Schäpfeberg mule track, which I’ve already been on, requires me to push on for just over a kilometre.
So, even though it continues to climb after that, I’m happy to pedal back to a magnificent plateau that’s a complete change of scenery. 
I don’t know whether I’m in Switzerland, Scandinavia or Canada. I feel like a reindeer could appear at any moment. 
But no, I’m seeing cows. This is Switzerland.
A short descent, one last difficulty, and here I am on the slopes of the Beatenberg, overlooking Lake Thun. 
It’s a generally downhill section, skirting the entire north shore of the lake, atop steep cliffs pierced by a few tunnels, and the views are breathtaking. 
A brief section of forest then offers me a few moments of pleasure… and displeasure… 
and displeasure… as I had to dismount on some very steep paths at times.
Then I start the long descent to Thun. I cross the charming old town, with its bridges over the Aare and its surfers, to stop off…
Finally, I enjoy a long descent to the charming old town of Thun, with its bridges over the Aare and its surfers, and that’s where I’ll be stopping.

Stage 6 / Thun – Broc 74,1km / +2’272m

And now the sixth day is beginning, and it’s as sunny as ever. 
Once again, I begin with a long ascent of 7 kilometres at 10%, before a brief respite and a final climb to reach the Col de Glurnigel, at an altitude of 1,610 metres.
From here, I enjoy around ten kilometres along the ridge, on magnificent paths.
The scenery is absolutely sublime. It climbs, descends and climbs again, passing through forests and mountain pastures. A pure delight with a view. 5-star mountain biking, both for the trails and the scenery… 
At Zollhaus I crossed the language border, the famous Rösti barrier, without seeing a potato, and entered the French-speaking part of Switzerland.
After a pleasant ascent of the Singine Chaude river, on pretty paths, I sulphurously climb the rugged Balisa after the Lac Noir. It’s really steep for a few kilometres, but once again, the scenery is worth the effort.
Here I am in the canton of Fribourg, the ninth of the trip, where I descend the Vallon de Charmey on very pleasant paths.
I pedal to the village of Broc, in Gruyère, home of cheese and the famous milk chocolate.

Etape 7 / Broc – Montreux (puis Monthey) 83.7km / +1’954m

It’s off for the final stage, heading for Lake Geneva. 
But first I had to cross the Moléson massif, the famous Fribourg summit, which dominated the first part of this day, which was a little less sunny than the previous ones. 
Once past the village of Moléson sur Gruyères, I follow the western side of the massif, heading south through the mountain pastures. 
As always with these little trips, I’m glad to be getting there soon, but at the same time, I don’t want it to stop.
After Les Paccots, I tackle the very last climb, the Col de Soladier, at the foot of the jagged Cape au Moine massif. 
I’ll have to push a bit to reach the pass, but I pedal over this last hurdle and enter the last canton, Vaud.
And there it is, the lake, Lake Geneva, at the south-western end of the country, at the end of my diagonal.
All that remains is the long descent to Montreux and the shore of the lake, where by chance the boat named Montreux will pass, as if to celebrate the end of this small but magnificent adventure… Here I am at the end of the Route VTT 2.
I finally gave up on the train and cycled the last 35 kilometres to Monthey, where my lover and some friends welcomed me with a very nice aperitif.
People congratulate me, tell me it’s crazy to do that kind of things, I smile, I feel good, and deep down I think it’s crazy not to do them. So? when are you setting off?