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Join de urbirun newsletterCan a Pont de Pierre make a hangover go away? Is Le Jardin Public an original name for a public park? Can a big bell be a means of exerting pressure?… Come on, let’s go for a run, and I’ll give you all the answers to these fundamental questions…
The Pont de Pierre and La Garonne
I start my run near the Pont de Pierre, close to our accommodation, so I don’t have to carry my hangover too far (but let’s keep that between us).
I set off along the quays of the Garonne, wide and brown, under an unfortunately grey sky. This takes me to the Miroir d’Eau (Water Mirror), where I realise that I don’t look as bad as I thought, what my legs had already told me to my great delight.
I continue northwards, and take the opportunity to spot a nice terrace on the Quai Chartons, where we’ll have lunch later.
It’s very pleasant, pedestrian and calm, and I gradually approach the huge piers of the Chaban-Delmas Bridge, which allow the bridge deck to rise to over 60m, to let the boats through.
A glass round building or a cubic concrete block?
Urbirun then guides me to the Cité du Vin, that astonishing building shaped like a multicoloured wine carafe.
But this is not the time for wine tasting. I continue towards the massive concrete bunker that housed a major german submarine base during the Second World War. When I say massive, I mean massive. So massive that it’s almost indestructible, which is why this concrete block is still there…
Another harbour basin, then a long straight stretch through a quiet district takes me back towards the centre across the Chartrons district, then through the Jardin Public, a park popular with the locals.
Back to the Old Town
And soon I am on the immense Quinconces Square (126,000m2!), where a rally of old cars is held, at the foot of the Monument-Fontaine aux Girondins, and its leaping horses.
Moving closer to the centre, I passed the colonnades of the Grand Théâtre, made a diversion to cross the majestic Stock Exchange Square, before enjoying the pretty little streets of the Quartier Saint-Pierre, all the way to the Cathedral, which has stood there since the 11th century and has seen a few of royal weddings.
Of course, I don’t forget to pass under the Grosse Cloche (Big Bell), nickname of the Saint-Eloi Gate. It is a vestige of the city walls, and has become a symbol of the town. The people of Bordeaux have always been very attached to this bell, and in fact, when the king wanted to punish them for their insubordination, all he had to do was remove it. They were soon back in line.
I end my visit at the Basilique Saint-Michel, surrounded by market stalls, to join the Garonne once again, slightly south of the Pont de Pierre, with its 17 arches… and the hangover gone… Running magic?
And as the sky slowly opens up, we can look forward to a few pleasant tastings on the terrace, as wine is obviously one of the other monuments of the city and its region.
Bonus
In addition to our urbirun Bordeaux audio tour, you can download this tour and others in .gpx format from the urbirun.gpx boutique.